Acne treatment without retinoids

What are the main advantages of the alternative approach?

Andrea Piacquadio

Cosmetologist Sofya Teterdoes not believe that medications (tablets and ointments) with retinoids, which were previously prescribed to any person who was somehow faced with the problem of acne, are a clear solution to the problem.

Sofia Teter

Some patients did not even turn to a doctor for this: they “prescribed” them for themselves, inspired by the experience of their friends. Few people said that first you need to identify the root of the problem. And, first of all, eliminate the trigger factors that provoked this process. After all, they can be mistakes in nutrition and illiterate skin care.

Let's give an example: in your home routine you actively use scrubs and peels. And don’t connect this fact with the fact that all processes worsen precisely after their use. And the reason is that abrasive particles spread pathogenic bacteria throughout the face. Or, let's say you prefer products with a lot of oils. And you don’t think about the fact that they are comedogenic and often cause skin rashes.

The point is not that one should resist drug treatment, but that there are certain indications for taking systemic retinoids. But there are also contraindications. And most importantly: you cannot prescribe them to everyone.

Is it worth taking medications?

Let's start with the fact that after stopping the medication, the percentage of relapses is very high. Studies have shown that 70% of patients who completed one course needed a second one within a year.
This is due to the fact that retinoids increase the secretion of sebum, as a result – the synthesis of androgens increases, and sensitivity to them increases. The result is predictable: the fastest possible return to where you started.

Yes, with their help, of course, you can achieve a state of temporary remission, but do not forget about the mass of side effects. Which are, for example, pregnancy and breastfeeding. These are absolute contraindications to systemic retinoids, since the latter have a teratogenic effect. Just think about the effect they have on the body, if after the popular “yellow peeling” doctors recommend strict contraception for at least 6 months.

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Also, treatment with retinoids takes quite a long time (approximately up to a year). This is due to the fact that it is necessary to achieve a certain concentration in the body. In this case, the process is often accompanied by exacerbations, dry skin, increased sensitivity to the sun and other “bonuses”. Moreover, during this period, any grinding is absolutely excluded, as well as working with scars!

More to come. In no case should you take retinoids together with tetracyclines (antibiotics), as this can lead to increased intracranial pressure. That is, if for health reasons you have to take medications, the acne treatment will have to be interrupted. And then… Start all over again. Also, during therapy, you need to monitor your biochemical blood test monthly. This is due to the risk of increased liver enzymes.

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Chlorophyll-carotene Anti-Acne Active Mask, Aravia Professional

How to solve the problem in a few sessions in a cosmetologist’s office?

Modern cosmetology makes it possible to cure acne without systemic retinoids, even if the affected area of the face and body is very large, and there are scars, scars and age spots on the skin. Of course, therapy is selected individually. But the scheme itself does not change. At the first stage, we relieve inflammation, then cleanse the skin and only after that eliminate all the consequences. Before starting treatment, it is better for patients to get tested for hormones and deficiencies.
What can be done? Filling scars with collagen and collagen-stimulating preparations, various polishings: more aggressive – fractional CO2 laser, or delicate, without superficial damage to the skin – FRAXEL. Very often the latter are combined with PRP therapy: injections of platelet-rich plasma. This is a great way to start the process of your own skin regeneration.
But everything is purely individual. There is no one size fits all acne treatment regimen. It can be selected only after consultation and collection of the patient’s medical history.